In the sun-drenched hills and coastal towns of Liguria, pesto is more than a sauce—it’s a heritage. While modern kitchens may favor blenders, many Ligurian pesto artisans continue to craft pesto alla Genovese using traditional mortars and pestles, preserving the authentic flavors and techniques passed down through generations.
In this article, we delve into the lives and philosophies of some of these dedicated artisans, exploring their methods, inspirations, and unwavering commitment to authenticity.
Inside Liguria’s Pesto Culture
Before we meet the artisans, let’s pause and talk about what makes this region’s pesto so special. Technique, time, and tradition all mix to create something that feels unmistakably Ligurian.
Pesto here isn’t just a sauce. It’s pride on a plate. In every Ligurian kitchen, from the busy streets of Genoa to quiet coastal towns like Rapallo, the process is almost like a ritual. Basil leaves are picked fresh, garlic is crushed slowly, cheese is grated by hand, and olive oil is poured carefully, not rushed. The sound of the pestle against the marble mortar is part of the experience. It’s the heartbeat of the region.
What sets Ligurian pesto apart isn’t just the ingredients, though they matter more than most people realize. The basilico Genovese DOP grows in salty air and warm Mediterranean light, which gives it a gentler, sweeter flavor than the basil grown anywhere else. The cheese is usually a blend of Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Sardo, and the olive oil is always local, cold-pressed, and green like the hills.
Locals say the secret to great pesto is timing. Move too fast and the basil turns bitter. Go too slow and the flavor fades. Every artisan has their own rhythm. Some listen for the scrape of the pestle, others go by texture or scent. There’s no stopwatch, just experience and instinct.
In Liguria, pesto is more than food. It’s part of who people are. It shows up at Sunday lunches, seaside picnics, and family tables where everyone swears their grandmother made it best. That mix of memory and skill is what keeps the tradition alive.
Now, let’s meet the people keeping that spirit alive today, the Ligurian pesto artisans who still work the mortar by hand and make every batch with heart.
Francesco “Lilli” Ratto – The Basil Whisperer of Pra’
In the verdant greenhouses of Pra’, a district renowned for its DOP-certified basil, 76-year-old Francesco “Lilli” Ratto has been cultivating basil for over six decades. His meticulous approach involves harvesting basil plants with four to six leaves, ensuring optimal flavor and tenderness. 
“The basil must be young and tender,” Ratto explains. “Only then does it release the sweet, peppery aroma essential for true pesto.”
Ratto’s dedication to quality has made his basil a sought-after ingredient among local pesto producers, maintaining the high standards of Ligurian culinary tradition.
Roberto Panizza – The Maestro of Mortar Pesto
Genoa-born restaurateur and food innovator, Panizza has spent decades defending the old-school craft of making pesto in a marble mortar with a wooden pestle.
He’s the founder of the World Pesto Championship and a global ambassador for the culture of pesto al mortaio. He insists that the only acceptable basil is the DOP Genovese kind, that you start by crushing garlic and pine nuts, then basil, then cheese, then drizzle oil — technique and tool matter more than gadgets.
Enrica Monzani – The Culinary Educator of Genoa
Enrica Monzani, founder of the bilingual food blog “A Small Kitchen in Genoa,” combines her passion for Ligurian cuisine with a commitment to education. Through cooking classes, food tours, and her cookbook “Liguria in Cucina,” Monzani shares traditional recipes and techniques with a global audience.
Her efforts have been instrumental in promoting Ligurian culinary traditions beyond Italy’s borders.
“Liguria’s cuisine is colorful and full of contrasts,” Monzani notes. “It reflects the region’s unique blend of sea and mountains.”
Mattia Bassi – The Champion of Tradition
At the 10th Pesto World Championship held in Genoa’s Ducal Palace, 56-year-old naval engineer Mattia Bassi clinched the top prize. Using his grandmother’s utensils, Bassi impressed judges with his meticulous technique, separating the pounding of garlic and pine nuts from the basil to avoid a cushioning effect.
“Precision and respect for tradition are paramount,” Bassi asserts. “Each ingredient must shine.”
His victory underscores the enduring relevance of traditional methods in contemporary culinary competitions.
Gian Rovegno – The Sailor Chef of Rapallo
In the coastal town of Rapallo, 80-year-old former sailor Gian Rovegno is celebrated for his simple yet flavorful Ligurian dishes. Emphasizing fresh, local ingredients, Rovegno’s cooking embodies the essence of Mediterranean cuisine. 
“Simplicity and quality are the keys to good food,” Rovegno believes. “Let the ingredients speak for themselves.” 
His approach serves as a reminder that authenticity often lies in the basics.
Guardians of a Culinary Legacy
These artisans, each with their unique backgrounds and philosophies, share a common dedication to preserving the authenticity of pesto alla Genovese. Through meticulous techniques, reverence for tradition, and a deep connection to their land, they ensure that this iconic sauce continues to delight palates around the world.
Their stories serve as an inspiration to culinary enthusiasts and a testament to the enduring power of tradition in an ever-evolving gastronomic landscape.
