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Salumi and Cold Cuts

Cured pork and its regional names, from culatello to nduja, how to read a cut face, and how to judge and buy the real thing.

Italian cured meat is the section where the name on the package does the least work. Prosciutto, salame, coppa and soppressata are ordinary words on an American deli counter, used by producers who have never been near the regions they name. What is protected is narrower: a named product from a named place, such as Prosciutto di Parma, Mortadella Bologna or Salame di Varzi, carrying a DOP or an IGP. What those two marks control, and where the guarantee stops, is the first thing to know before you buy.

How to judge a cured meat

Three things carry most of the judgement. The mark, where there is one. The ingredient list, where reading it in order shows the bulking agents and cheaper swaps an imitation leans on. And the cut face, which shows the grind, the fat and the colour of the cure. Many products carry no designation at all, and for those the producer and the list are the whole case, as with nduja and salame Milano. The origin wording on the pack is a separate question, and Made in Italy is not the same claim as Product of Italy.

Where to start

Start with Prosciutto di Parma and what its crown guarantees, then guanciale, the cut that decides whether carbonara and amatriciana work. Some cured meats never reach an American counter, and the import rules explain why. Once a piece is home, how long cured meat keeps decides how much of what you paid for survives.

What it costs, and where to buy it

Price bands for salumi and the pantry show what a fair price looks like and what too cheap usually means, and the four buying routes that work in the United States say which one suits which cut. Every salume here is one case of the Italian ingredient and the gap worth paying for.

Every guide in Salumi and Cold Cuts